Seeking Input for the Steelworxx Looker Purchase
As I wait for someone to purchase my Mature Metal Jailbird, I'm finalizing my plans to buy a Steelworxx Looker 01. If the Jailbird doesn't sell, I guess…
As I wait for someone to purchase my Mature Metal Jailbird, I’m finalizing my plans to buy a Steelworxx Looker 01. If the Jailbird doesn’t sell, I guess I’ll have a backup device just in case. Most of the dimensions are settled: Total length: 53mm Penis ring: 35mm diameter Cock ring: 45mm diameter Urethral plug: 8mm thick, no ball, extending 10mm beyond cock ring. Gap: UNDECIDED Determining the width of that gap is the tricky part. My testicles ride high and tight - if that gap is too wide, out they pop. Too narrow brings pain, the bad kind. My Jailbird had a gap of 3/8”. That’s about 9.5mm and never gave me any problems. Because the base ring was oval, the two rings sat level at the bottom, so there was no added length due to height differences. That won’t be the case on the Looker. I’ve made a little illustration to show my reasoning and indicate my concerns: Image The metal making up the penis ring is 6mm thick, that of the cock ring is 8mm thick. If the two rings are level with each other as indicated, then Line B = 11mm. All the reasoning below assumes this is true. If anyone can confirm or deny this detail for me, please let me know. What I’m concerned about is Line C, as that is the real gap keeping my testicles in place (actually you have to subtract 7 from that value to account for the radii of the two rings). So, If the horizontal gap = 10mm, Line A = 17mm. Line C = 20.25, then subtract 7 for the ring radii and True Gap = 13.25mm If the horizontal gap = 9mm, Line A = 16mm. Line C = 19.42, then subtract 7 for the ring radii and True Gap = 12.42mm If the horizontal gap = 8mm, Line A = 15mm. Line C = 18.60, then subtract 7 for the ring radii and True Gap = 11.60mm So, questions: Have I done this right? Did I miss anything? Looking at these numbers, I am very tempted to ask Dietmar for an 8mm gap. When I used to wear a CB6000S, I used the 1.75” base ring with the 1/4” spacer without discomfort so I think it’ll be okay, but I would very much appreciate any advice on the matter. Thanks.
In the absence of any feedback I've instead spent some time in quiet contemplation while walking in the woods. Despite my temptation to reduce the gap below 10mm, my gut is telling me it's a bad idea. Upon reflection, the better solution might be to purchase two cock rings, in 44mm and 45mm diameters. That's just a little under and over 1 3/4" which I know I can comfortably handle. The 44mm ring reduces Line B from 11mm down to 10mm. Plug that number in and the final value is a true gap of 12.7mm. I think that'll be fine. Probably the 45mm ring will be fine as well but I don't like the prospect of shelling out a few hundred dollars and finding out I was wrong. So I'm gonna spend a little more for peace of mind.
One thing you might consider while working on your CAD is if you're getting the anatomical base ring or not? The anatomical ring (B) would have a bend towards your body making the gap (line C) bigger than in your drawing
Yes the anatomical ring does make a difference as Albert Steel pointed out. I would double check the measurements with the ring
Hey, thanks to you both for the warning. I didn't even mention the anatomical ring because I ruled it out pretty early on - for the exact reason you mention. I do wish I could try it though. Sadly I just don't think it's compatible with my anatomy. Besides, I'm committed at this point. I sold my Jailbird, it's on its way to its new owner as we speak, and I placed my order and paid for the Looker. I suppose there's still a little time for last minute changes but I can't think of any. Just hoping it fits well.
Actually, I'm feeling more butterflies in the pit of my stomach about the Looker purchase than I care to admit. For two reasons. One - What if I screwed something up in my measurements and the device isn't comfortable or doesn't stay on. Always a worry with a new device. Two - What if it's awesome? Yes, I went through the same thing with the Jailbird. I went a year with just one full, normal orgasm - something both my wife and I regretted doing afterward. As badly as I want to be back in that place again, there is an intensity to it that is also a little terrifying. Part of the whole thrill really. I measured and remeasured to make sure I can handle the shorter dimensions. The 35mm diameter cage is almost exactly the same as the 1 3/8" cage rings on my Jailbird. I wanted to go tighter but with the 8mm thick urethral plug I think it'll feel more snug. Also, having my cock compressed roughly another 1/4" should add a little girth. And if I had gone narrower, I'd have a larger gap between the cage and cock rings (Line C in my diagram) - a definite deal breaker. My Jailbird had a 1 3/4" long cage and I definitely should have gone a 1/4" shorter. I filled the cage most of the time, but not constantly. With a urethral tube I want to eliminate any forward/rearward movement. Especially with a locking pin going through my PA piercing. When I add up the dimensions of my Jailbird, (1 3/4" cage) + (3/8" gap) + (1/4" cock ring), I get a total of 2.375", or 60.325mm. If I shave a 1/4" off that I get 2.125", or 53.975mm. Take off 1mm for good luck and rounding up, I get a total length for my Looker of 53mm. That 53mm is broken down into: (8mm cock ring) + (10mm gap) + (35mm cage). The fact that the cage is as long as it is wide strikes me as having an elegant bit of symmetry. I found a few pics of a cage that size on recently and thought it aesthetically pleasing. His cock ring is a little tighter and his gap is 2mm wider, but otherwise the external appearance should be the same. One detail I am thinking about modifying - if there's still time - is having the brass locking cylinder covered so that it can't be pried open with a screwdriver. There was some thread here with someone who had that done, I think. I'd love to see a pic to see how much bulk it adds. Anyone have one?
I think one of the key points for me with the lock is that it can be pried open with a screwdriver if needed to be removed. I don't carry an emergency key, if an emergency comes, I want them to be able to remove it and I can always order new locks. When things are removed in an emergency they pick the softest material (other than body-lol) and the brass will be easy for them. I think the only step past that would be JB-Weld. lol
Hmmm...you have a good point. What if I carry an emergency key with me? I figure I can have it in something sealed and dated, that has to be ripped open to use and says EMERGENCY KEY on it. Maybe worn on a thin chain around my waist so the EMT's or whoever can find it. I know all this isn't strictly necessary. It is more about the mind-fuck than anything else. Also, I found the thread about the enclosed lock - it was posted by ptharv. I sent him a PM but he hasn't visited the forums since I wrote it. In another thread of his, he talks about the problems he had with the lock jamming. I'm less concerned about that part as I am generally let out regularly for tease and denial sessions. Dietmar tells me it is 30 euro extra for the enclosed lock, so I'm still considering.
I just went down to Lowes/HomeDepot and picked up a small piece of aluminum tube that I could slip the keys in. I cut a groove for the heads of the keys to slip into and drilled a hole so you could have a steel security tie used to keep the keys in the tube. With the tube I can see the keys but can't get to them without cutting the tie. I did that when we first got the device and I thought I might "need" an e-key. After a year I decided was much easier not worrying about losing the E-Key and just gave them all up. But it did work well and I could have used a plastic seal like the numbered one also. My device looks like Dietmar's but was 4.95 and about 20 mins of my handywork.
My homemade solution. Stainless steel tube. Sorry, I tried to paste them in here but they were HUGE. Just follow link please. My device was modeled off of Dietmar's from Steelworxx. I used stainless steal. No getting out of it. My thing cost me about 12 bucks and a couple hours of cutting with a dremel.
Nice! I think I'll try making one of those regardless of what I decide about enclosing the lock. Thanks.
Very Nice Zapper. A real DIY solution.
Thank you, both of you. I would consider duplicating them if anyone wanted.
Thanks for the offer Zapper. I'm kinda a DIY guy also and always looking for a new project to tackle. Thanks again for sharing.
Thanks for the offer, Zapper. If I try it and am unhappy with the results I may take you up on that. Decided not to enclose the lock. My little voice (Magnum, PI, anyone?) was telling me I was pushing too hard for meager returns. Better to have access to the lock in an emergency and not carry around a key.
Great work, Zapper. By the way, where do they source the stainless steel hemisphere caps? I see it at Steelworxx and a new outfit in Poland called RigidChastity. I did some web searches and came up empty.
What hemisphere caps?
I think he is talking about the cap at the front of the Looker 02?
Yes. I though perhaps someone out there who has purchased raw materials might know.
Ah. That I do not know. I bought a pipe online. I just searched the mighty google machine for what I wanted.
Sorry. Double post.
It looks like he is responding to you? I sent Steelworxx an email almost a week ago and have not heard anything. What is the best way to contact him? I am interested in ordering a Looker as well.
I used the email address on his website. Last time I got an email from him was April 7, a day after I asked him about encasing the integrated lock. He is a one-man operation, so it's possible he's dealing with something on his end (illness, injury, family issues, who knows). Maybe give him a few more days and then try again? Let me know what happens.