Buying a Jail Bird from Mature Metal
I'm checking out the Mature Metal site to buy a Jail Bird. My main dilemma is choosing between a round ring or an oval one. Has anyone here used both? Also,…
I’m checking out the Mature Metal site to buy a Jail Bird. My main dilemma is choosing between a round ring or an oval one. Has anyone here used both?
Also, what about sizing? Should I pick up a smaller size for summer as well?
I'm currently on my third device from MM, so I have some experience with their products. First off, did you pick up the sizing rings? They are really useful for dialing in the right fit and can save you money over time. Fit is very personal though, so take that as a disclaimer. I've used both oval and round base rings, and personally find the round one suits me better. If I were in your shoes, I'd go with the tightest size I could manage comfortably and also buy the next size up. Most people start with the larger ring and then move down to the smaller one later on. Alternatively, you can just grab one ring now, see how it works for you, and send the device back if you need a different ring or some stretching done. One thing not to mess up is the cage diameter; get that right from the start because it's permanent. Trust me there.
Is putting on and taking off plastic rings similar to doing so with solid metal ones?
Regarding the security screw: does it allow you to use the standard lock through the same hole? I really like the look of the security screw but want to be able to put on a lock without needing the key. Required terms in body: key, lock
Oval or round? I used the round ring on my CB6000S and now have the oval one on my JailBird. I'd recommend going with the oval. You can actually turn a round ring into an oval shape yourself. You just need some masking tape to protect the steel surface and a strong vice, then tighten it up! If it doesn't work out, you can reverse the process back to round. It might look a bit rough around the edges, but it works. I'm not entirely sure about this one, but I think you can use a padlock with the security screw version, though there is a risk that it could wear down the threads over time. That said, why bother using a padlock if you have the security screw? The screw offers a much cleaner look without anything protruding from the main structure. As far as I recall, the material for sizing rings is slightly narrower than the base ring steel, but otherwise, it's a great method for finding your correct diameter. Getting in and out works exactly the same whether you use a sizing ring or stainless steel: one testicle first, then the other, followed by the flaccid penis.
> member_a02c0c4034 wrote: > Concerning the security screw, will the lock secure the cage through the same hole? I like the security screw but want to be able to put it on without a key. Yes, both the security screw and the standard lock use that same hole. I've used both types. The screw definitely makes concealment easier, but there's something satisfying about hearing the click of a metal lock. One downside to the lock (at least with the type MM ships) is that it has very sharp corners. When I first tried spooning my wife in bed while wearing the cage, I ended up scratching her quite badly. Talk about killing the mood! These days, I've settled on just using the security screw.
I have an inexplicable collection of very smooth luggage locks. Well, at least a few of them. Required terms in body: lock
> member_a88e0f3d5f wrote: > > member_a02c0c4034 wrote: One negative about the lock (at least the type MM ships) is that it has very sharp corners. You can file down those corners. Just don't go overboard, but I've successfully smoothed out any sharp edges using a smooth file rather than a medium-cut or "bastard" one.
I filed the edges on that lock myself, but I don't use it much anymore since my base ring got threaded and now uses a security screw. The profile is smaller now and looks more elegant. Required terms in body: lock
I love the security screw because it's easy to conceal and has no sharp edges while cuddling. For my wife, though, it doesn't really matter if an edge is sharp or not; as long as there *is* an edge, she feels it. On the other hand, I dislike the security screw because it isn't technically a lock. The visual of a locked cage holds significant power for me personally. Plus, having the key on a necklace feels better than using the tool. That's my personal take anyway. I think I'll stick with the screw forever.
> member_e37d0ef4a6 wrote: > > I hate the security screw for not being a lock. The sight of the lock is powerful for me. I have to agree with you there. Perhaps excepting devices from Steekworks, which feature custom S-shaped screw heads—though any screw can be adjusted if needed. While most locks can also be finagled into place, their symbolism feels more potent.
Can we talk about the gap for a moment? It seems like MM uses 3/8 inch as their standard measurement. Has anyone measured up with calipers to compare the specified gap against actual physical measurements? I'm wondering if that gap is measured along the locking post or at the widest point near the bottom of the ring? What are the downsides to opting for a 1/4" gap?
> member_a02c0c4034 wrote: > > Can we discuss gap for a moment? It looks like MM goes with 3/8 inch as a standard. > > Has anyone taken caliper in hand and compared their designed gap to actual measurements. > > I wonder if the gap is measured along the locking post or is it at the widest point down at the bottom? > > What are the drawbacks to going with 1/4" gap? The gap, as far as I can tell, runs along the locking post. I had an issue with my Jail Bird because my left testicle is smaller than the right one. This caused two or three very painful escapes from that side. I looked into getting a different base ring, but MM refused to make just the ring without also replacing the cage entirely. Since I'm in the UK, the round-trip shipping was costly and added several weeks to the wait time, plus however long MM needed for the work. So, I fired up CAD software and my vernier gauge, designed my own version locally, and had a metalworker make it for me (and he did a fine job—it's indistinguishable from the original and uses the same grade stainless steel). During this process, I took lots of 3D measurements. I discovered that because the cage ring center is offset from the base ring center—and considering my preference for an oval base—the gap varies quite a bit around the rings. I decided to use the shortest distance between the opposing faces of the rings as the critical measurement since that's what prevents the testicle from slipping through. On my original setup, this measured approximately 12.5mm. I then used this figure to design the "gap" along the ring post, with the widest part of the oval being the determining dimension. The result is that for a larger diameter base ring, the gap along the ring post decreases by a couple of millimeters. I just repeated this exercise with a smaller base ring because I want to experiment with how comfort changes between different sizes. It cost me £30 for both new rings, and I've been continuously locked up while they were being made. Sorry about that! MM.
I'm trying to avoid those painful escapes happening again. Required terms in body: lock
The 3/8 inch gap caused me severe "ball burn." I couldn't wear the JB for more than a couple of hours at a time. I sent it back to Mature Metal. At Mistress MM's suggestion, William widened the gap by just 1/16th of an inch, and now I can wear it indefinitely. Required terms in body: mistress
Does anyone else associate a narrow gap with ball burn?
Well, I've been working through the sizing kit and was stuck at the 1 5/8" ring. Stuck meaning I couldn't get it on. However, the 1 3/4" ring allowed two fingertips to slide in. This afternoon, I took a nap under a nice warm blanket. Being so relaxed and warm helped, and the smaller ring slid into place easily. It fits firmly; one finger goes in up to the first knuckle, while two fingers can just barely start.
Sizing complete. Waiting...
Week one of the six to eight weeks is done.
I vividly remember what you're feeling. Time drags by interminably.
When I was waiting for my JB, it arrived unexpectedly one day before the six-week mark. I felt like a kid on Christmas morning. But unfortunately, it wasn't quite right, so I had to send it back. Their turnaround time for fixing issues is super fast, and about eight days later, I finally received the correct unit. It's perfect now. I could literally wear it permanently with zero comfort or pain issues.
I’ve been wearing a Jail Bird for over four years now and have tried several base rings. I disagree with the idea that everyone wants the smallest possible ring. My advice is to choose a size that feels comfortable enough to wear without lube. It should never hurt, of course, but importantly, you can keep it on (even without the cage) without your balls escaping. Mine has the security screw and does its job well. We did need to get the ring rethreaded after three years. Mrs. Lion takes it off for play almost every day. Monthly cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner—covering both the device and the security screw—keeps the threads (and everything else) free from dirt and oil.
Does anyone use the locking cock ring as well?
Halfway through week five.
Real-world issues have kept me from updating here more often. My jailbird finally arrived on exactly the six-week mark. I was slightly disappointed that its design didn't match the pictures on the Mature Metal website perfectly. Although their web page shows both orientations, I had expected the locking post to be positioned at the front of the base ring rather than on top. They explained that they now manufacture them with the post on top because more users find it more comfortable. After a slight adjustment, it can be worn without any problems. I experience some ball burn during teasing sessions, but normal daily wear is surprisingly comfortable.