Welding Methods for Steel Chastity Gear
I have several stainless devices. None are perfect fits. The Millers orginal design was not the sturdiest BUT it allowed for a huge number of ring/gap/tube…
I have several stainless devices. None are perfect fits. The Millers orginal design was not the sturdiest BUT it allowed for a huge number of ring/gap/tube combinations. My old CB2000 rings with an old CB3000 tube were highly adjustable for ring/gap dimensions. This combo was less than ideal for hygiene and kept breaking. i fixed it more times than i can count and finally have moved on to steel. i need to get my steel devices modified to meet the dimensions that work so well. Doing this will require me to cut existing welds and make new welds - but i don’t even know what kind of weld we are talking about for stainless. I will need to reposition the part that goes into the locking section, and this will mean cutting the current “weld” and re-doing it in its new location (move of a little less than 1/4 inch to get the gap right). Here is my question - WHAT TYPE OF WELD IS IT? Torch? Silver Solder? MIG? TIG? i have even considered trying PC-7 epoxy but I think a steel weld would be stronger and this connection has to stand up to torgue when i lay flat on my stomach in bed. does anyone else have experience rewelding these devices? OR … does anyone have any suggestions on how to “re-attach” metal to metal after i detach an existing weld?
> Silver solder might be okay for components that won't get a lot of torque. However, I'd be concerned that it could discolor, and you certainly want to avoid it touching your skin. Stainless steel weld wire in 18-8 grade (304, 305, 318, 318, etc) might be the safest bet. I can't opine on which weld process is better.
> I'd guess the interweb would be a better source of that kind of information than this forum would be. There are probably very few here who make their own custom devices. Or look up, and contact directly, one of the sellers of the material, again, prob best found on the web. I have searched for sources of 316 stainless rod in 1/4 and 1/8 inch diameters, but don't have a welder, nor have done much welding...it was more of a 'I wonder how hard this stuff is to find' sort of search. Maybe someday, just not anytime soon.
> I would contact Mark at Malechastitynow. He has done some incredible work for me modifying my ergonomic Chinese base ring. Prices are very fair for the quality of custom work he does.
> Stainless is very hard and difficult to weld. It requires an experience welder with TIG equipment. Most welders won't even fire up the TIG for less than $50.
> Tom Allen wrote: ↑Sun Aug 02, 2020 6:39 am > Silver solder might be okay for components that won't get a lot of torque. However, I'd be concerned that it could discolor, and you certainly want to avoid it touching your skin. > Stainless steel weld wire in 18-8 grade (304, 305, 318, 318, etc) might be the safest bet. I can't opine on which weld process is better. WHY IS IT A CONCERN TO HVE SILVER SOLDER TOUCHING MY SKIN? IS IT DUE TO SOME LEAD? OR SOMETHING ELSE? SILVER SOLDIER IS PROBOBLY THE MOST AVAILABLE OPTION
> Generally, silver solder contains: 65% fine silver. 20% copper. 15% zinc. There may also be traces of other metals in the allow to improve flow. Copper and zinc are not approved for long term body contact. They will tarnish, and may cause irritation. Plus, a poor joint will leave burnt Flux which you may not be able to remove.
> I used to make silver (and gold) jewelry years ago. I made a lot of wedding rings out of silver sheet. I used jewelry-quality sterling silver solder to form the joints. People have worn those rings for decades. I have never heard of residual flux issues. Of course, I always polished my finished work. Generally, I had to blend the joint invisibly. There was never a chance of flux remaining. I wonder if silver solder is even viable on stainless. Of course, you could make a sterling silver chastity device:)
> Caged Lion wrote: ↑Wed Sep 23, 2020 5:41 pm > Of course, you could make a sterling silver chastity device:) New product line for Tiffany or Swarovski?!
> the answer is 316 stainless steel mig weld with straight argon gas. or argon with 3 %. oxygen in the mix, and polish after welding. tig is good also.
> Professional welder with 16 years of industrial/aerospace experience here. The best process for a welded stainless ring repair is tig. For a 3/16" through 3/8" ring you will want to set your power supply at ~120 amps (assuming that you are using 1/16" tig wire) . Make sure that you are using a 2% tungsten (red band).Your shield gas should be straight argon at 30-35 cfh. When you apply heat to stainless it lowers its corrosion and oxidization resistance so you will want to use a higher grade wire. Most base/ cock rings are made of 304 or 316 stainless so you will choose a 316 or 327 wire. I suggest 1/16". Before you start welding you need to ensure that both ends of the ring are aligned. This may be more difficult than you expect. Depending on the amount of heat generated when it is cut apart, heat distortion may cause the metal to slightly deform. If this happens you can (depending on the severity/ angle of the distortion) secure it in a table vice and pry/bend it into the correct shape or use creative positioning of C clamps to hold it in place until you weld. Keep in mind that you will most likely have "kerf loss" of at least .035" from cutting it, so the ring will be slightly smaller if you have both ends together when you re-weld it. The deeper into the ring the heat fuses the metal, the stronger the weld. For a chastity device you can absolutely weld it without beveling the ends but never take that chance on a ring that will be load bearing or critical for safety in any way. The easiest technique for hobbyists and novices to use for a weld like this is called the "lay" method. You will lay your wire on the area that you want to fuse and just guide the torch over it. Once you see it melt either move the torch forward along the wire or stop. If you spend a second too long in one place on a 3/16" ring you will very possibly melt the base material completely and "blow out" the ring. Stop frequently. You do not want it glowing like the sun. Rings are a bit more forgiving than plate or sheet but heat distortion is possible. Do not quench (cool with liquid) the ring. Let the heat dissipate open air. If the ring is distorted when you are finished you may be able to use a conical mandrel or a car exhaust expander to round it back out. It's a coin toss whether these will work, so don't get the ring too hot. When you have fused the ring all the way around grind the cap off using an angle grinder and abrasive disc or a belt sander. It's easy to over do. Take it easy while doing this. Hope this helps.
> Recommend you seek out a custom chastity device mfg. for your mods. Getting someone local, with the skills and attention to detail (polishing) that you need, will be extremely difficult, to say nothing of the awkward discussions that will likely be needed. Also, probably less than no interest in getting it perfect. Compare the cost of a professionally done mod, against the cost of just getting a new custom cage, and considering it a lifetime investment.
> JimR wrote: ↑Thu Oct 21, 2021 12:08 pm > Recommend you seek out a custom chastity device mfg. for your mods. Getting someone local, with the skills and attention to detail (polishing) that you need, will be extremely difficult, to say nothing of the awkward discussions that will likely be needed. Also, probably less than no interest in getting it perfect. Compare the cost of a professionally done mod, against the cost of just getting a new custom cage, and considering it a lifetime investment. My Jail Bird apparently will be a lifetime investment. I have had it for 8 years. (I did have to have it adjusted 3 times to get it perfectly sized.) It still looks brand new. I am 72 so it seems very likely that I will be able to enjoy it for the rest of my life. Even if I die tomorrow, it will have been one of the best investments I have made, and I have been fortunate enough to have made a lot of very good investments.
> My Jail Bird apparently will be a lifetime investment. I have had it for 8 years. (I did have to have it adjusted 3 times to get it perfectly sized.) It still looks brand new. I am 72 so it seems very likely that I will be able to enjoy it for the rest of my life. Even if I die tomorrow, it will have been one of the best investments I have made, and I have been fortunate enough to have made a lot of very good investments. As a 75 YO, I totally agree with you. We, as a population, spend a lot more each year on cheap junk of all types, that is barely usable out of the box, and will break or become obsolete in a short time.