Key and lock issues

Alright everyone, what’s the general consensus on these scenarios? How do you handle it when that common little brass “insert and twist” lock on chastity cages (especially Chinese models) breaks or refuses to open? For instance, how do you proceed if the key snaps inside the mechanism? Or if debris gets stuck in the keyhole so the key won’t fit? These locks are exposed to a fairly tough environment, sometimes for weeks at a stretch. The standard method is drilling out the lock, but let’s be honest, most people have to tackle this solo, and it’s no small feat. I imagine you’d need about a 6mm drill bit, which would make it shall we say, an exciting experience? Because of that, I’m thinking about extending the 6mm hole all the way through my base ring and installing a smooth rod to replace the “insert and twist” mechanism. I can drill the rod for a 4mm padlock, or just use one with a long 6mm shackle. Has anyone dealt with this?

> Hoss wrote: ↑Thu Jun 09, 2022 7:35 am > Alright everyone, what’s the general consensus on these scenarios? How do you handle it when that common little brass "insert and twist" lock on chastity cages (especially Chinese models) breaks or refuses to open? For instance, how do you proceed if the key snaps inside the mechanism? Or if debris gets stuck in the keyhole so the key won't fit? These locks are exposed to a fairly tough environment, sometimes for weeks at a stretch. > Has anyone dealt with this? I’ve used that same lock for ages, often going months or more without unlocking it. I wore it in saltwater and pretty much any other condition too. Never had any issues whatsoever. I did keep up on maintenance by rinsing it with fresh water after ocean swims and occasionally adding a drop of light machine oil. If the lock ever gave me trouble, I don’t think I’d bother drilling it out anyway. A brute force approach to either the tab (if accessible) or the tumbler itself would likely be quite simple. The only reason I swapped the lock after years was that I got a new keyholder, so it made sense to have a matching new lock and key. Good luck with your decision.

same here, I’ve used the same lock for about 6 years now (originally from an HT) and never had a hiccup. I use a drop of shaver oil every few months but that’s really all it needs. I also feel like I could reach the tab end with a screwdriver blade or similar tool, or file off the top of the barrel, and I think it would just fall apart easily. MsM’s ld

I’ve had one of those locks "fail" in that the turning became a bit stiff. That said, it was gradual and happened with the cheap Chinese ones (which are universal) rather than the higher quality version featuring 4 holes above the tumbler and an indentation on the opposite side of the key. Those were far superior; I had plenty of warning signs. There seem to be about two tumblers inside that mechanism. I know because I used to pick it with a paperclip and got caught when it was off. The tumblers are more prone to breaking, so the lock is likely to fail rather than seize completely. We played around with those cages for roughly 4 years; she caught me once with it open and then bought a mature metal JB featuring a screw. I also have zero issues with that screw. My wife actually quite likes that I can’t get it off anymore.:/ been in it most of the year.

> DrPinotNoir wrote: ↑Fri Jun 10, 2022 4:37 am > I’ve had one of those locks "fail" in that the turning became a bit stiff. That said, it was gradual and happened with the cheap Chinese ones (which are universal) rather than the higher quality version featuring 4 holes above the tumbler and an indentation on the opposite side of the key. Those were far superior; I had plenty of warning signs. There seem to be about two tumblers inside that mechanism. I know because I used to pick it with a paperclip and got caught when it was off. The tumblers are more prone to breaking, so the lock is likely to fail rather than seize completely. > We played around with those cages for roughly 4 years; she caught me once with it open and then bought a mature metal JB featuring a screw. I also have zero issues with that screw. My wife actually quite likes that I can’t get it off anymore.:/ been in it most of the year. The two barrel locks I own came with an authentic HTv3 and a genuine Cobra. Can we assume they are the better quality ones? (I feel like I need a picture to visualize what you mean by those 4 holes and the indentation.)

disclaimer: Those locks are incredibly easy to pick. If you aren’t a lock picker, good for you, but they are really that simple. I can get out of them in under 2 seconds. any keyholder reading this should know. Spot checking your locked partner is necessary if you suspect something. I’d guess yours are fine too. The ones included with my favorite pre-jailbird cage (A271) were garbage though. However, these are the best quality versions I’ve seen Image You can see the holes (which allow you to drop key oil down them). I find they hold together quite nicely. I have also bought Burg-Wächter locks. Either of those brands are good choices.

Ditch the cheap Chinese copy and buy an original Burg Wachter ME/2 from Holy Trainer or Amazon. ... 467&sr=8-2

To be fair, I would have thought that having the lock seize up is more of a fantasy for many of us here.

> Steve2059 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 14, 2022 3:54 am > To be fair, I would have thought that having the lock seize up is more of a fantasy for many of us here. That would apply to some who have been around here long enough.:mrgreen:

I had a Master lock (certainly not the one described in this thread) seize up on me when my wife wanted to let me out for some fun. She freaked out more than I did, and it took plenty of WD-40 and two pairs of channel locks to coax it open with the key. I no longer use Master Lock brand products and am careful to oil them occasionally. They weren’t made to survive the dampness we expose them to, so brass is preferable whenever possible.

> sirmebane wrote: ↑Fri Jun 17, 2022 2:49 pm > I had a Master lock (certainly not the one described in this thread) seize up on me when my wife wanted to let me out for some fun. She freaked out more than I did, and it took plenty of WD-40 and two pairs of channel locks to coax it open with the key. > I no longer use Master Lock brand products and am careful to oil them occasionally. They weren’t made to survive the dampness we expose them to, so brass is preferable whenever possible. That’s odd. At least one of the Master locks I use is about 20 years old; they have never given me any trouble at all, even after 18 months of continuous wear.

Hoss..I used the same technique you describe, using a 6 mm aluminum rod about 3 inches long. I threaded and JB welded a nut on one end, and drilled two holes in the other to accommodate either one or two quality padlocks, or plastic security tags. If you’re worried about needing to remove the cage during an emergency, just cut or file through about ¾ of the way along the rod between where it exits the cage and the first locking hole on the rod itself. That allows you to snap off the end in a pinch without ruining the cage, eliminating the need for an emergency key nearby. Also, drilling out the cage for the rod likely won’t interfere with using the internal lock if you want to keep that option open.

I wear a steel Cobra nano and when I sleep on my left side, the brass lock slides partly out. Usually I just push it back into place and roll onto my right side. This morning the lock was three-quarters out; when I touched it, it simply fell apart. I have plenty of replacements but took the broken lock pieces along with the cage to put on my wife’s vanity. When she wakes up we can replace the lock, and then she can go hide the new keys. This makes me wonder what would happen if the lock broke while stuck inside the cage. Thinking about switching to a cage with an insert screw bolt. Opinions?

Go on Amazon and search for chastity security tags. No need for key or lock