Shorter cage size to manage morning wood

I picked up a rumor that if your device is quite short and tight, morning wood stops being a problem. Does anyone confirm this? I’m looking at buying a metal cage soon which can be fully customized. Should I just grab the one-inch size so her cock gets completely squished inside it? For reference, my flaccid measurement is 2.5 inches and erect is 5.5 inches.

Hello fonetik2003 and everyone else reading, I believe the design of the device matters more than its tube length. No matter how long or short the tube is, almost every non-full-belt model causes me pain, particularly at night. My reasoning is that it comes down to how the device handles any erection attempts—whether controlling them or suppressing them—and how well it absorbs pressure. If there's tugging on the testicles, it hurts. However, if the pressure is just held back by a waist-band, I find it manageable and bearable. You can't stop erections entirely, especially while sleeping. But with the right choices, suppressing them shouldn't ruin your sleep quality. Kind regards, Keuschling

I believe that's correct up to a point. Eventually, there simply isn't enough space to put it on at all. If you are truly 2 1/2 inches flaccid, you likely shouldn't go much shorter than that size. I've seen some suggest going 1/4" shorter; Mature Metal seems to recommend this, but you should verify with the builder of your specific device. Also, it doesn't get rid of morning wood completely, just makes it less annoying. Now that I wear a properly fitted device, I barely notice when nocturnal erections happen. Sometimes I have to actually reach down and check to be sure. -A

> Atone wrote: > Also, it doesn't get rid of morning wood completely, just makes it less annoying. Now that I wear a properly fitted device, I barely notice when nocturnal ereptions happen. > -A I agree. I learned this the hard way: you must leave some room for growth in your cage to make it wearable long-term. You can shorten either the length or the diameter, but not both simultaneously. When an erection happens inside a device, there needs to be somewhere for the penis to go. Some of that volume fills the cage itself, some goes back into the body, and the rest pushes the device outward, which leads to scrotal pain. I found the best balance was keeping full length (not subtracting 1/4 inch) while allowing 1/8 to 1/4 inch of "wiggle room" in diameter. Having a bit more width also makes shower cleaning much easier.

I think I'll side with Wishful4 on this one. Since I'm fairly wide even when flaccid, I probably need about an inch and a half in width if we do it this way...

> member_7f5b971d37 wrote: I found the best balance was keeping full length (not subtracting 1/4 inch) while allowing 1/8 to 1/4 inch of "wiggle room" in diameter. I agree with that too. MM seems to concur as well. When I was sizing my cage width, the measuring ring felt tight on the head but loose along the shaft. Asking MM which size to pick, he advised going with the larger size based on the head rather than the shaft. I have about an 1/8" of space and it's excellent for both comfort and cleaning.

> member_f6b6701974 wrote:I'll probably need about an inch and a half in width if we do it this way... To clarify, could you specify which measurement you're referring to? It seems this thread has started discussing both length and diameter without being very precise. I think you'd be better off listing all relevant measurements since they interact with each other for the best fit. I wouldn't want you spending money on a custom device only to miss out on the optimal fit. -A p.s. It's possible I'm the one confused here; if so, please ignore this as it is still early in the discussion.

My wife and I have just started discussing upgrading from our CB-6000s to metal. So I'm following this thread closely. Usually, my 6000s leave me with about 1/4" or less of length-wise room. Does that mean a custom device would be a good fit in terms of length? There are so many factors when going custom; it's slightly overwhelming!

I meant an inch and a half diameter with only an inch of length. Sorry! My mistake!

> member_f6b6701974 wrote:I meant an inch and a half diameter with only an inch of length. Sorry! My mistake! I don't think that will work the way you expect. You'll end up with more of a cup (almost like a saucer) rather than a tube. I've heard this combination tends to lead to accidental pull-outs. I haven't really thought about it before, but all my devices seem to be roughly twice as long as they are wide. As I went shorter in length, I also narrowed the width. -A

Hmm well that's exactly why I'm raising it here. I'd really like to know what needs adjusting before I go ahead and spend $55 on a new cage...

I've been thinking about this more deeply and have reached a conclusion. I will simply measure how much extra space is in my current cage and go down from there so that just enough room remains for my flaccid length. I also plan to chat with the manufacturer before ordering to ensure I know exactly what I'm doing. If anyone here thinks this is a poor idea, please speak up now...

fonetik2003, Not to dampen the enthusiasm, but in my opinion it is a bad idea. I've been there and done that myself. That was exactly what I thought when ordering my first custom metal device. It just didn't hold up for long-term wear. With a cage that is too small, you have no room for erection attempts, which will happen anyway. Initially they occur at night, but over time, even being in the same room as your keyholder can trigger them. A cage that is too tight eventually leads to discomfort and soreness. Additionally, cleaning and drying the shaft properly becomes difficult inside a snug cage. Odor issues often follow. You need to move past the fantasy aspect and look at it practically. You will be just as locked in with some wiggle room as you are when it's very tight. I plan to write a longer thread later detailing my view on sizing, but for now, here is my two cents.

> member_7f5b971d37 wrote:fonetik2003, > Not to dampen the enthusiasm, but in my opinion it is a bad idea. I've been there and done that myself... [text continues] I think this is very sound advice... I have terrible nights with nocturnal erections; so much so that I don't wear one at night when home. Just being in CQ's bed makes me hard, and getting up to handle these erections four times a night means the reality is I can't function well at work or with customers, so we take it off... I even tried a BON4 for nighttime hoping silicone would be more forgiving. It is, but it looks ugly and bulky... and causes significant soreness; cleaning and drying are as Wishful4 described, much harder. I have a custom device that fits perfectly. I am 2.3" soft and 6.5" hard. You simply cannot suppress that amount of growth. My device is 2.5" long with a 1" diameter cage. The erections from teasing are bearable during the session, but they do hurt and pull heavily on my scrotum and internal ligaments; I think this is just part of being a locked male—we suffer through hard-ons and deal with it. I don't believe you can completely suppress erections (aside from medication).

Hmm indeed! Very well then! I'll see how the 2.5" handles me and go from there. Thanks everyone for the input!

I assume you have made your decision and I'm sure it will work out fine;) For future reference, though, I highly recommend this guide: ... it-devices

I'm fairly confident that the 1 7/8 inch ring is what I need given my experience with the CB-2000. (The manufacturer's website states their rings are comparable.) If not, I'll just call the maker and order a 2 inch ring instead. As for the cage itself, it will likely be too long. My plan is to lock myself in it for the first time and let my cock go flaccid. Then, I'll measure from the tip of the cage to the tip of my penis and subtract that number from the known length of the cage (2.5 inches). That result would be my ideal cage length! To ensure accuracy, I intend to take 3 measurements on day one. Then another 3 at different times during the day. (assuming I'm not aroused and am flaccid) Afterward, I'll tally up the data and discard any outliers that seem erroneous due to being too far off the curve. Finally, I'll calculate the average and choose the next highest cage design available. For example, if my average is 1.39 inches, I'll go up to a 1.5 inch cage. Did I ever mention I worked in a chemical lab? That's actually a modified version of the measurement system I used back then... Let me know what you think! Also, after reading that article, I'm quite sure I need a 1.5 inch diameter because I have plenty of girth even when flaccid. Although I found the point about night pain interesting and would like more info on this topic. I'm currently wearing a 2 inch ring; do you wake up needing to pee every night? Does that mean my base ring is too large at 2 inches? When flaccid, I normally have some wiggle room which makes me believe a 1 7/8 inch ring would be ideal...

My shackle is a homemade ball trap device featuring a 1.25 poly pipe curve and a bicycle chain base ring that has been suitably molded and sheathed. There is also an internal grill butted at the end to stop the penis from slipping out the front; recently I warped the tube slightly while trying to dye it in boiling water, and during a intense tease session, the grill popped loose from its fitting to rest inside the shaped end of the tube, adding about 1/2 inch more length as well as widening the area where the glans expands. The difference in night erections is distinct and not favorable. They've shifted from uncomfortable pressure to full erections that must endure a bend while the unforgiving bike chain drags my balls halfway up the pole. I can manage until I get out to effect a repair, but my advice would be to go as small as possible without cutting off circulation.

In that case, do you suggest going really small and scrunching her cock into a tiny cage or should I allow some "breathing room"? I'm receiving mixed signals here!

Okay! Never mind! Pansy Tart's methods set me straight! I'm a "grower" and we're looking at just under 2 inches when flaccid; therefore, I think 1 inch is fine for cage length. I also noticed I have plenty of girth even when soft, so 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 inches should probably work well in the width of the cage considering that I evidently want some room around her dick. The only real X factors here are the gap (3/8 inch will likely be fine, but it remains to be seen) and the ring size. Regarding ring size, I believe the 1 7/8 inches included is what I need, though if I suffer any night pain, I'll know to order a sizing kit so I can get more accurate measurements right before ordering a new ring. Thank you very much for your help here people! I appreciate it!

> member_f6b6701974 wrote:I'm receiving mixed signals here! Everyone has different anatomy. They also react to stimuli differently and have varying tolerance levels for discomfort. I think what you are experiencing is a mix of multiple perspectives. As you add your own experience, you will be able to relate to some points better and gain a clearer understanding of how you might react. There are no simple answers and many variables. It's unfortunate that trial and error can be so expensive. That is why the CB6000 or CB6000s are often recommended as a starting point; they allow you to adjust more variables with minimal extra cost. -A

> member_f6b6701974 wrote:Okay! Never mind! Pansy Tart's methods set me straight! I'm a "grower" and we're looking at just under 2 inches when flaccid; therefore, I think 1 inch is fine for cage length... [text continues] I don't follow your logic here at all. So you are 2 inches flaccid so you want a tube that is only 1 inch long? That doesn't make any sense to me. If you saw a tube with a diameter of 1 1/8" and a length of 1", you'd probably think there's no way you fit in it. I suggest visiting Home Depot. Go to the tool section, grab a tape measure, then head to plumbing for PVC or CPVC fittings. Look for a pipe cap made from 1" or 1 1/4" pipe (I don't think they make 1 1/8" pipes but could be wrong). A 1 1/4" pipe cap will have an inside depth of about 1" and an inner diameter of 1 1/4". It should cost around 30 cents. You might as well pick up a few others while you are there. My impression is that you aren't ready to order yet; your numbers seem scattered and change frequently, sometimes drastically, every few days. I believe you're setting yourself up for disappointment. Just my two cents, -A

You aren't taking the ring girth and gap into account in this equation. Those two factors combined with the cage length total just under 2 inches, which as I've already stated is my flaccid length.

> member_f6b6701974 wrote:You aren't taking the ring girth and gap into account in this equation. Those two factors combined with the cage length total just under 2 inches, which as I've already stated is my flaccid length. Where exactly are you measuring the length? It's usually recommended to measure along the underside from where the shaft meets the ball sack to the tip. If measured that way, ring girth and gap don't affect the result. No matter how you measure it, if you end up with a 1" cage length (2" on top or 1" on the bottom), you can use a pipe cap to gauge just how small that is. It may be possible that you really are that small, but it seems unlikely. Good luck with this. -A

This is quite an engaging discussion. I just completed this process myself; last week I ordered a Queen's Keep from MM. Since I didn't want the device to travel back and forth across the Atlantic (I live in the UK), I wanted to get it right initially. Consequently, I spent considerable time evaluating the sizing options. Having owned a CB3000 before, I had a solid baseline. I also reviewed the sizing guide on the Chastity Mansion website (which was linked earlier in this thread). While I didn't agree with every point made, as others have noted, we are all unique, and there isn't one universal rule that fits everyone. I opted for a 1 7/8" ring since that is the size I use with my CB3000. The Chastity Mansion guide suggests going larger. I considered this but decided the 1 7/8" works well for me, avoiding pain and preventing waking up during nocturnal erections. The gap is set at 3/8", as MM recommends, which suits most people. This exceeds my CB3000's gap slightly. Given past issues with escaping testicles, I carefully considered increasing it. Ultimately, I chose the 3/8" gap because a) I selected an oval ring rather than round, and b) I increased the cage diameter. The internal diameter of the CB3000 is 1 3/8". Although I was content with this size previously, Chastity Mansion suggested going larger. After thinking it over, I agreed that was wise, but how much? Initially, I thought a quarter-inch increase, but even though it sounds small, it represents a significant circumference boost (remember pi*d from school?). So, I decided to go up by 1/8" to reach 1.5", hoping for the best. Then came length. For me, the CB3000 is too long, so I sought a shorter custom device. Following MM's advice on the site, I took my measurements. My first reading was 2.5", but as suggested by MM, re-measuring over a day or two showed that 2" was more accurate. Some recommend reducing cage length further by 1/4", which is a 25% reduction; however, I decided against it. There you have it. The order is placed, and now the waiting game begins to see if my choices were correct. greengrass.

> member_1e7cab683f wrote: > So there you have it. the order has been sent, and now I wait. wondering if I've got things right. I believe sticking with a ring size compatible with your CB was a good decision; personally, I wouldn't go larger myself. That seems to be the only place where going bigger is suggested. If not for the issue I had with my CB3000, I might not have increased the diameter either, though I will mention that my Jailbird (1 3/8" diameter) feels smaller than my old CB3000 did, so perhaps that extra 1/8" is perfect. Reducing length should also help fill out the tube better. I really feel you can't treat length and width as entirely separate measurements; when inside the tube, they influence each other. I read through the "advice" posted on Chastity Mansion, and my impression was that it was presented authoritatively by someone lacking practical experience. It started off as his method for measuring his first custom device. Reading further into his posts reveals he eventually made some modifications to achieve what he considered a perfect fit—likely changing the base ring if I recall correctly—and other issues may have arisen since. His measurement technique does make sense. As I moved toward smaller devices, I adapted and realized one could /should go slightly smaller here or longer there as needed. Part of this adaptation was my anatomy getting used to some compression. However, I disagree with much of his sizing advice—not because it failed him, but simply because what works for him doesn't necessarily work for everyone else. Most members here offer advice based on personal experience and frame it that way. Even (especially?) experienced users qualify their responses by noting they are drawn from their own experiences and might apply differently to you personally. I try to be cautious about this, given how many devices I've gone through; only a fool would let me size one for them:) At the same time, I share my process of moving between devices so others can relate it to themselves and see if it applies. If there were truly a foolproof method to get a perfectly fitting, secure, and comfortable device on the first try, these boards wouldn't have such active traffic. Please keep us updated on your progress. I really like the Queen's Keep design and might have bought one myself had they been available when I was looking for something distinct from my Jailbird. I once tried welding a jailbird-like cage to the end of my Pet Trap for a similar outcome, but it was more of a hack (and somewhat heavy) that never quite worked out perfectly. There is a thread about this somewhere here; searching "pet trap" and "the beast" (my nickname for it) should bring it up. -A

> Atone wrote: > You will find that most of the members of this group will provide advice based on their own experiences and present it as such. Even (especially?) the experienced members will qualify their responses are based on their own experiences and that it may apply differently to you. Everybody except me, whose word is Gospel.:roll: While we're discussing this topic, does anyone know the weight of a Jailbird or other MM devices? I realize sizing affects weight, but seeing some stats for rings and cages would be great.

> member_381064b05f wrote: > While we're on this subject, does anybody have a weight for the Jailbird, or the other MM devices? I realize that it will depend upon the sizing, but I'd love to see some weight stats for the rings and cages, if possible. I know I posted these once but I cannot find it on my iPhone. I'll either look for it tonight or just re-weigh them, might be quicker. -A

Dude... she's gotta let you out first.... can't just flop it on the scales....:lol: CQ lets me out at night coz I can't cope with the night time hardons... its just too disruptive, I will see if we have any scales that can measure it. I'm guessing its about 2000kg, feels like it anyway...:D Seriously I love the weight feeling it gives.

True but I am wearing my steelheart. Agree about liking the weight. Sometimes when everything is just right it just sways as I move, really cool feeling. -A

> member_1e7cab683f wrote:The gap is 3/8" as suggested by MM as most people are happy with that spacing. This is more than my CB3000 gap and because I've had an issue with escaping testicles in the past, I thought carefully about increasing it. I eventually went for the 3/8" gap because a) I think you will be happy with the 3/8" gap, not the 1/4". I was wearing a CB6000s with the KSD only as a spacer. The thickness of the KSD was just under a 1/4". I had worn it this way for about three months. When I ordered my MM device I got the 1/4" gap, wrong move. When I put the MM device on the first time after about an hour I felt "funny". When I checked things I found that my testicles had swollen a little and my sack was getting dark. The gap seemed to be too short. I started to check things to find out why. What I found is because the CB6000 is plastic, and the pins and holes not precision made, it moves up and down. The gap in the testicle area would increase to about; you guessed it, 3/8". The MM device has no up and down movement. A change to the MM device to a 3/8" gap and my problem went away.

> member_381064b05f wrote:I realize that it will depend upon the sizing, but I'd love to see some weight stats for the rings and cages, if possible. Mature Metal Size Weight Chart *Mature Metal Size Weight Chart* Mature Metal Size Weight Chart.png (40.82 KiB) Viewed 3314 times

It would appear that the device I intend to purchase is (roughly) 6.5 ounces, assuming the information you gave is accurate... Can't wait for that feeling! And I believe my method will work for deciding on which cage to buy. Also, (as I've said earlier) if their devices are comparable to the CB-2000 that I currently have to take a break from (honor system) like they say, the 1 7/8 inch ring will be just what I need! Awaiting your information Atone! My Goddess has already programmed the necessary data into her account and will send you the agreed upon payment as soon as I hear from you.

Hi there. This is my first post but I felt it necessary to give my two penneth. I made the mistake when I ordered my MM Jailbird of going too big. I'll tell you for why, because the way I see it is that if you get a nightly erection and as it swells you meet up with the resistance of the cage at an early stage you will probably be stirred. I say stirred because the tumescence has not reached anything like its potential. You are stirred to semi conciousness at which time you can, to a certain extent control your thoughts and actions and to a certain degree calm things. O.K. So you make my initial mistake and go for the longer tube, what happens when you start to grow and you are still asleep.....you stay asleep because the gravity of what is happening has not hit you yet. You only realise what is happening when its too late, you have a raging hard on that has only one thing in mind as your hormones are now fully loaded into your bloodstream. You wake with a full hard on that is probably still growing and has no where to go but up against the metal which is unforgiving. This is probably when your sleep is NOT stirred but you will be fully conscious and a trip to the bathroom will be needed to take a leak to releive the pressure. So now your fully awake and you finally start to subside so back to bed and try to get back off to sleep and lets hope there won't be a repeat before morning. So besides having a sore scrotal sac from where it pulled you've disturbed your wifes sleep as well as your own, if she was as many wives are, a reluctant keyholder, I think the toleration of chastity may be wearing thin. So I agree you need a little waggle room but not as much as you might think. ewok123

Well if it does come to that, it's good to know that I've gotten very adept at getting out of bed and not waking her. It's gotten to the point were I can even fire up a cigarette right next to her and not wake her! As I said before, I'll see how the existing configuration treats me and if I deem it necessary, I'll take measurements and order a new cage... Thank you for the advice sir!

I just mailed the money for a Steelheart (or 'Sweetheart' as Chatelaine is already dubbing it) and can confirm that sizing is quite tricky. I followed the website's recommendation because I assume Deitmar knows his product better having crafted hundreds of them, whereas I will likely only ever own one. The various sizing variables between devices and differences in your penis during different arousal stages mean an accurate estimate based on someone else's experience is optimistic at best. My observations from my current device seem to support his sizing charts too. However, there is a key difference now between how the Steelheart will be used versus the tube I made for myself. Mine was designed for occasional days off work and short evening solo sessions. I kept it tight to boost sensation, with security coming as an added bonus. Erections are manageable, but even after three days without stimulation, my scrotum and foreskin are beginning to ache. (I don't mind this, though Chatelaine does.) The Steelheart allows for longer periods of confinement. Even if I assume I will feel it less when wearing it long-term, comfort and hygiene have become the priority over pure sensation.